Hilde Soliani easily tells stories about playing in her grandmother's lab as a child, her life as a performer, and how she immortalized her charismatic father and uncle via two of her fragrances, namely Bell'Antonio and Zio Agide. During our brief encounter I instantly felt easy around her. As we talked, she rummaged through her bag, the exact same way that my Zia's from Italy always did when I was a kid, their hands always emerged with some kind of gem, usually a caramel or a chocolate. Similarly Hilde’s hand emerged with fragrance gems that she carefully selected and placed in my hand with great assurance. Her selection truly gives an interesting overview of her fragrances and how she has evolved as a perfumer. As the fragrances progress, they embody lightness, that speaks to abstraction and modernism in perfumery. I like that.
Ti Amo Collection, Il Tuo Tulipano, 2004
With Il Tuo Tulipano I can easily imagine Hilde on her Sicilian beach with black sand dreaming of red and yellow tulips. Soliani reminded me that this is a conceptual fragrance given that the tulip flower is without scent. Fruit and flower collide here, yet there is a gourmand aspect that makes Il Tuo extraordinary. This sunny fragrance exudes depth, warmth and brings complete harmony to the table. A juicy pure peach opens the fragrance and is tempered by citrus notes, centered on bergamot. Its heart is sweet woody, a bit spicy, and focused on white florals, freesia and lily of the valley. It's base is cozy and anchored in oakmoss, vetiver, and musk.
Teatro, Olfattivo Parma, 08, Bell'Antonio, 2008
Named for her handsome and elegant father, Antonio. Soliani told me Bell’Antonio has many meanings: her love of smoking toscano cigars, these have coffee aroma inside them, and the smells and emotions she encountered while waiting on the ticket line in Parma to see the opera as a child. I am struck by the initial gorgeous hay note that bursts open to a sweet spicy star anise that is quite pronounced on my skin, and this fragrance continues to bloom with its richness of espresso, tobacco, and smokiness. This is a modern Tabac Blond. It's a compliment to be compared to a classic, no?
Il Tuo Tulipano, Giallo, 2011
Here is the yellow tulip that she dreamed of. A bright transcendent fragrance whose focus is bergamot, rosemary, and basil. Here is Soliani’s contemporary interpretation of a old cologne acqua di Parma. Soliani says, “Parma is very sophisticated for the sophisticated Human being.”
Here is the yellow tulip that she dreamed of. A bright transcendent fragrance whose focus is bergamot, rosemary, and basil. Here is Soliani’s contemporary interpretation of a old cologne acqua di Parma. Soliani says, “Parma is very sophisticated for the sophisticated Human being.”
Gli Invisibli, Zio Agide, 2012
There's a classic Fougere in the house, with a bit of a twist, and it wants to go out into the world. A herbaceous top leads us to big player notes of Lavender and Cedar Moss, yet there is a green sweetness that lives, perhaps fig, perhaps rose. This makes this a delicate fragrance that a woman or man can wear. Hilde's uncle, Zio Agide was a young man who knew how to walk the walk, just like this fragrance.Thanks to Hilde Soliani for her thoughts and time, and I look forward to seeing you again next time. Valerie
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Photo Still: Mamma Roma, Anna Magnani and Ettore Garofolo.
