Aroma M: Geisha Nobara-cha, Geisha Violet, Geisha Rouge

Yoshitomo Nara, Lone Star

Maria McElroy told me that there is a Japanese saying that translates to the water agrees with you, and during her seven years in Japan she experienced good health, long walks sometimes surrounded by plum blossoms, and a feeling that she was home. Maria is certainly enamored by all things Geisha, the glamour, mystery, and ritual, but in no way is she trying to be a Geisha. She told me squarely, "I am an American girl," and it's true Maria certainly is an all-American emancipated woman. Geisha culture just happens to be the source of her preoccupation and inspiration for aroma M fragrances, not to mention exquisitely fragrant face and hair Camellia oils, with a body and bath oil to follow. She enjoys burning and brewing Japanese incense and tea, and soon she will be opening the doors of her Dumbo studio and you will get to experience all her line has to offer for yourself. For now, here's my take on three of her fragrances.

Geisha Nobara-cha

Nobara-cha is one of three fragrances centered on tea. It is a studied fragrance that is earthy and wild. Think dark damp earth after the rain. I smell mushroom, wild rose, incense. A fascinating fragrance with a still almost meditative dry-down. Maria came to perfumery through aromatherapy and I detect a subtle nod to her past here. This fragrance is not for the light-hearted fragrance lover; I like that.

Geisha Violet

Initially Violet is incredibly green on my skin, like violet leaves-green and earthy. Soon it begins to change and a floral translucency emerges from its heart note, namely Lotus. A base of bitter chocolate steps in to give weight and presence to this interesting slightly gourmand mix. As the fragrance settles a sweet whisper of violet blossom finally and magically appears.

Geisha Rouge

Rouge took the longest for Maria to create. She was looking through a telescope and asking herself what can sexy be, along with the specific idea of making a perfume that contains no floral component. She ended up with a warm spicy fragrance. Cinnamon, anise, clove, and sandalwood are guiding this fragrance to a flame that descends leaving us with a burning, yet subtle incense ember. If Rouge was a starlet she would have bedroom eyes and a breathy voice.

Fueguia 1833 Patagonia, Thays

When I heard the word Thays, I thought that it was short for the Spanish word for tea, considering this fragrance is inspired by Mate Yerba. I quickly learned that Thays is named after the French-Argentine landscape architect, Carlos Thays, and soon the story behind this unique and complex fragrance emerged. South America is in the house, read my post on CaFleureBon.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/new-niche-fragrance-review-fueguia-1833-patagonia-thays-the-lure/

Snapshot #8, Maria McElroy, aroma M

Print: Masao Ebina

Maria McElroy is one of the few deeply glamorous people that I know. Earlier this month I had the opportunity to visit her studio, and experience her keen eye for detail, reverence for ceremony, and infectious laughter. I first met Maria earlier this year at Les Christophs show at the Dillon Gallery in NYC; I can still see Maria with blotter in hand and eyes closed savoring every scented moment. Note: Maria envisioned the fragrance for her Camellia face and hair (and soon to be) body oils as if they were a veil, and the combination of application and veiled scent helps to both ground and elevate the day, not to mention the skin and hair. Brava. Enjoy, VV

VV
What are you up to these days?

MM
There is a lot of activity at aroma M these days! I just launched aroma M Beauty, my organic Camellia Face and Hair Oils, and I am now formulating the next product in the line, Camellia Body/Bath Oil to launch in a few months. I am so excited about this oil, it looks like liquid gold and the fragrance is based on the face oil blend, with the addition of Moroccan Rose Oil. I’m really loving it! I have also started Art of Perfume classes with my House of Cherry Bomb partner, Alexis Karl. We have some really fun classes lined up this summer at the Dumbo studio. The one I am waiting for is ‘God Save the Queen: A Riot of Punk Perfume’ in June.

VV
Please let us know where you were born and raised? Can you share a visual and scent memory that stays with you from that time?

MM
I was born and raised in SLC, Utah. The visual I have is of the soaring mountains, and now as an adult I realize the scent in those mountains was crystal clear air. So pure… how I would imagine sky blue would smell.


VV
You have such a deep connection to Japanese culture in many ways; Can you give us a little window into your time there, a day in the life of.....?

MM
Well, I should start off by saying that I really feel Japan is my second home. I loved the time that I lived there. It was filled with adventure and inspiration. There was always something new to be learned and experienced everyday. My memory is that I felt very alive with a sense of excitement.


VV
Where exactly did you live in Japan, and how long did you live there? Can you describe what indelible impressions that were made upon your return to the states?

MM
I lived in Tokyo for seven years, and that time made a big impression on me, mostly in the way that the traditional arts and culture have helped me approach not just my creative endeavors, but life itself.

VV
Does it continue to influence your everyday world? If so, how?

MM
Yes it does. My husband is Japanese and a chef, so we are able to share many of the parts of the culture and philosophy that we both embrace. I always tease him that he is the last Samurai, because he has such integrity and humbleness- things that we both value.

VV
Do you have a daily ritual that you can share with us?

MM
I love rituals, so I have many! A few are: I start my day by lighting Japanese incense and meditate. I drink green tea every morning, and in this last year, have added a fresh green juice to my regime. I really think that green juices are the fountain of youth and energy!

Maria McElroy

VV
When do you wear a fragrance; is there ever a time when you don't?

MM
I wear fragrance before I go to bed at night, and always start the day with perfume. The only time I don't wear perfume is when I go to the Zen center for meditation. I feel that the incense in the meditation room is enough and I don’t want to distract others from their practice.

VV
Does blending and working with raw materials influence you physically/emotionally? If so, can you explain a feeling that has stayed with you?


MM
It is such a joy to be able to work with these wonderful elixirs. Every time I blend, I experience an almost time stopping feeling. The fragrances are often enveloping and I am able to be in the moment you might say. Certain fragrances can really take you away on a physical and emotional level. I have always felt it is a kind of magic to work with perfumes.

VV
If you could sit down and have a conversation with anyone living or dead who would that be?

MM
Cleopatra

Lyndsey Marshal as Cleopatra

VV

How did your passion for the visual morph into your passion for olfaction?

MM
It was really organic. It felt very natural to create scents inspired by colors.


VV
When you travel, what items do you not leave home without?

MM
I always take an amulet that I got at a temple in Kyoto that is for travel protection; I don't like airplanes very much. I also always carry a Lavender scented handkerchief.

VV
Do you have a favorite book?

MM
The Tale of Gengi
http://www.learner.org/courses/worldlit/the-tale-of-genji/

VV
A favorite cocktail?

MM
One of my other projects I’m working on is the House of Spirits, which is part of House of Cherry Bomb. We are creating flavored Vodka’s and Liquor’s. My favorite cocktail of the moment is our Fig Vodka over ice, it’s delicious!