Memoire Liquide Soleil Liquid and Santa Maria Novella Fieno

Friends,

Wishing you Merry Days as we approach the New Year.

A sunny perfume and a delicate one inspired December's posts on CaFleureBon

Memoire Liquide Soleil Liquid, brought me back to Granada, Spain
http://www.cafleurebon.com/niche-perfume-review-memoire-liquide-reserve-edition-soleil-liquide-winter-solstice-draw/

Santa Maria Novella Fieno and the Promise of a better days
http://www.cafleurebon.com/niche-perfume-review-santa-maria-novella-fieno-the-promise-of-better-days/

Enjoy, Valerie

Vero Profumo: Vero Kern and the Boys

The other night I broke out some new found oils. The boys and I smelled haitian vetiver, virginia cedar, egyptian basil, saffron, orris root, and galbanum together. Their little hands wanted to hold each bottle, but I kept a tight grip. Next to the oils were Vero's three, Rubj, Onda, and Kiki. A friend was visiting and I wanted her impression on the three, and of course the  boys wanted to try them too. I tickled them as I spritzed the fragrance on their arms. Soon after they wanted me to turn off all the lights so they could dance. I gave in and turned the volume loud, Moves like Jagger played and we danced together in the dark. The living room whirled with Vero's masterful scents.  In the Spring, Onda made me write to Vero mostly because there's nothing quite like it. It's stellar. I was touched by Vero's tender response and recollection. 

"The idea behind Onda was to create a kind of leather scent. Something that has fascinated me since my childhood. Being a child in a big family I didn't get very often new leather shoes. But then when it happened I couldn't get enough of this fantastic smell and I used to put the shoes next to my bed where I still could smell them in my dreams. Onda is also the memory of the smell of new leather shoes..." 

"Onda means wave. It can be the wave of water but also of electricity! In my case I've chosen it in the sense of a "FLYING CARPET" bringing you to your secret garden..baci, Vero"

Two Straight Up: Hilde Soliani, Gli Invisibili and Christian Dior Privée, Eau Noire

Immortelle

The Fragonard Room, The Frick, 1927

Two straight-up posts on two outstanding fragrances. Gli Invisiblili and the Fragonard Room. Eau Noire centered on immoretelle. Both posts on CaFleureBon.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/niche-fragrance-review-hilde-soliani-gli-invisibili-bambolina/

http://www.cafleurebon.com/fragrance-review-la-collection-privee-christian-dior-eau-noire-the-warp-and-the-weft/

Olfactive Studio Parfum

Olfactive Studio was the belle of the ball at Elements Showcase in August, and in mid-November these fragrances are still holding my attention. Olfactive Studio is a curated collaboration between perfumers and photographers. Creator Céline Verleure's vision and talent ensured this niche brand has depth and character, and leaves us with four distinct fragrances inspired by the following photographs. 

Photographer: Luc Laportre

Autoportrait  Dark atmospheric accords create a beautiful round baritone of a fragrance. Incense meets a solitary and fragrant walk in the woods, where mossy foot steps and silence can transform an ordinary day. Perfumer, Nathalie Lorson works her magic with Bergamot, Elemi, Benzoin Siam, Incense, Musks, Oakmoss, Cedarwood, Vetiver.

Photographer:  Frédéric Lebain

Still Life is the life of the party. Citrus sweet, citrus sparking, fizz fizz, a kind of luxe creamsicle, but there is a a peppery warmth here too. Still Life turned around my miserable Monday. A spiky drydown that rides the fun time wave all the way to shore. Perfumer, Dora Arnaud plays hard with Yuzu, Elemi, Pink, Black, and Sichuan pepper, Star Anise, Galbanum, Dark Rum, Cedarwood, Ambrox

Photographer:  Massimo Vitali

Lumiere Blanche, There is something comforting and creamy about Lumiere. Cool spices bump lovingly into this woody fragrance. Slightly powdery and perfectly balanced, yet elevated like classical music on a guitar. Perfumer, Sidonie Lancesseur, nobly creates with Cardomom, Star Anise, Cinnamon, Iris, Almond milk, Cashmere Wood, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, White Musk, oh and the juice is milky white.

Photographer:  Clémence René-Bazin 

Chambre Noire, This fragrance slowly comes into focus. I was reminded of Antonioni's Blow-Up, and how there is a magical moment that takes place in a dark room when an image emerges from seemingly nothing. If this fragrance were a color it would be plum, violet, deep purple, and black with silver lining. Perfumer, Dorothée Piot brings Schinus, Jasmine, Papyrus, Violet, Incense, Prune, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla, Leather to life.

The entire story of Olfactive Studio Parfum can be found on their website, where portraits of the creator, individual perfumers and photographers are captured. I urge you take a look and a sniff. VV
http://www.olfactivestudio.com

Hilde Soliani, A Brief Encounter at Elements Showcase

Hilde Soliani easily tells stories about playing in her grandmother's lab as a child, her life as a performer, and how she immortalized her charismatic father and uncle via two of her fragrances, namely Bell'Antonio and Zio Agide. During our brief encounter I instantly felt easy around her. As we talked, she rummaged through her bag, the exact same way that my Zia's from Italy always did when I was a kid, their hands always emerged with some kind of gem, usually a caramel or a chocolate. Similarly Hilde’s hand emerged with fragrance gems that she carefully selected and placed in my hand with great assurance. Her selection truly gives an interesting overview of her fragrances and how she has evolved as a perfumer. As the fragrances progress, they embody lightness, that speaks to abstraction and modernism in perfumery. I like that.

Ti Amo Collection, Il Tuo Tulipano, 2004
With Il Tuo Tulipano I can easily imagine Hilde on her Sicilian beach with black sand dreaming of red and yellow tulips. Soliani reminded me that this is a conceptual fragrance given that the tulip flower is without scent. Fruit and flower collide here, yet there is a gourmand aspect that makes Il Tuo extraordinary. This sunny fragrance exudes depth, warmth and brings complete harmony to the table. A juicy pure peach opens the fragrance and is tempered by citrus notes, centered on bergamot. Its heart is sweet woody, a bit spicy, and focused on white florals, freesia and lily of the valley. It's base is cozy and anchored in oakmoss, vetiver, and musk. 

Teatro, Olfattivo Parma, 08, Bell'Antonio, 2008 

Named for her handsome and elegant father, Antonio. Soliani told me Bell’Antonio has many meanings: her love of smoking toscano cigars, these have coffee aroma inside them, and the smells and emotions she encountered while waiting on the ticket line in Parma to see the opera as a child. I am struck by the initial gorgeous hay note that bursts open to a sweet spicy star anise that is quite pronounced on my skin, and this fragrance continues to bloom with its richness of espresso, tobacco, and smokiness. This is a modern Tabac Blond. It's a compliment to be compared to a classic, no?

Il Tuo Tulipano, Giallo, 2011 
Here is the yellow tulip that she dreamed of. A bright transcendent fragrance whose focus is bergamot, rosemary, and basil. Here is Soliani’s contemporary interpretation of a old cologne acqua di Parma. Soliani says, “Parma is very sophisticated for the sophisticated Human being.” 

Gli Invisibli, Zio Agide, 2012

There's a classic Fougere in the house, with a bit of a twist, and it wants to go out into the world.  A herbaceous top leads us to big player notes of Lavender and Cedar Moss, yet there is a green sweetness that lives, perhaps fig, perhaps rose. This makes this a delicate fragrance that a woman or man can wear. Hilde's uncle, Zio Agide was a young man who knew how to walk the walk, just like this fragrance.

Thanks to Hilde Soliani for her thoughts and time, and I look forward to seeing you again next time. Valerie

See Resource Page
Photo Still:  Mamma Roma,  Anna Magnani and Ettore Garofolo.

Aiyana by Tallulah Jane and A Fragrance Journey

This month I experienced  Aiyana, Tallulah Jane's latest, 3 ways. I also got to reflect on my niche fragrance journey that began with a good friend and a bottle of perfume that I almost forgot about. 

Read them both on CaFleureBon.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/new-niche-fragrance-review-tallulah-jane-aiyana-a-rose-is-a-rose-is-a-rose-draw/

http://www.cafleurebon.com/a-fragrance-journey-innocence-to-experience/


photo credit:  Taking inspiration from Joan of Arc, Chicago-based designer Grace Duval transformed a slew of old bicycle inner tubes 

An Email from Christophe Laudamiel

Hi All,

I wanted to share an excerpt from a lovely email exchange with Christophe Laudamiel clarifying my post on his and Christoph Hornetz Air Sculpture® scents at the Setai Hotel in NYC. 

My impression of the Setai is here: 

http://www.cafleurebon.com/the-intimacy-and-the-vastness-christophe-laudamiel-scents-the-setai-hotel-in-new-york-city/

Dear Valerie,

Thanks a lot...  Those (articles) are still rare in what we have endeavored to focus on uniquely: ambient scenting.

Regarding the Setai, here are the facts.  The scent design of the hotel was made by Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz , perfumers at DreamAir.  It contains 5 Air Sculpture® scents:

- Lobby and bar/lounge area scented with Grand Arrival, the signature scent of the hotel.

- Bar area scented with "Jazz Club on Fifth" automatically everyday from 8pm till 11pm as a jazz trio performs live.

- The corridors of the hotels are softly scented with Moonwood (that's 24 floors).

- The reception area of the Spa and common dry areas are scented with Lavender Fields.

- The wet Area of the Spa is scented with Nice New Ovo.

- The restaurant on the second floor is NOT scented, as most people are often not ready for scent design in restaurants, although, if you notice, restaurants often smell as not-really-intended, and could take a bit of scent design (doesn't mean perfume design necessarily).

- True, all scent players are modulable and reachable 24/7 by staff if need be or on demand, just in case.  But all is programmed 24/7.

Voila, thought you would be interested in knowing what is going on backstage or in case you would like to amend your article.

Thanks a lot for your interest, curiosity and excitement,

Kind regards,

Christophe