Orris Root, Odin Perfume Pop-Up Shop, Week in Review

Orris Root. Iris Florentina,  has been on my mind,  a middle note, a heart note, I see a color when i smell it. The palest violet.

This week while wearing Odin Petrana 04, I began to make many connections about Iris fragrances like never before.  Violet and Cassis, Violet Leaf, Pink Pepper, and Vetiver live here too.

I've been looking at photos of Jean Carles and his perfume pyramid. Many times this week I wished I could smell Vero Profumo Mito, wanted to be in Italy. The best whispered words of the week came while at MiN, Tuesday night. Girls write perfume blogs and boys review fragrance on youtube. Looking forward to rediscovering my neighborhood with my favorite Nose, all week long I've been-writing and smelling. Thank you Yves Cuilleron a Chavanay for a very fragrant and delicious wine, Viognier. My post on the Odin pop-up is on Cafleurebon (the link is here), get up and go out and visit it if you can. End of school, beginning of summer, father's day, pull the weeds. dry the bedsheets in sunshine, water the garden, smell the rotting mulberry and abundant mint in the backyard-it makes me smile.

http:/a/www.cafleurebon.com/odin-04-petrana-and-odin-pop-up-pop-in-pop-up-plus-the-rchitect-speaks/

Black Iris, 1926
Georgia O'Keeffe (American, 1887–1986)
Oil on canvas

The Kids are Alright, DEMETER Fragrance Library in the Classroom: Part 2

I recently read a transcript where a professor of biological sciences said that the problem with our sense of smell, or some of us thinking that we don’t have a very good sense of smell is that that we humans walk on two legs which allows our noses to be 5-6 feet in the air, however all the good smelling stuff is about 8-12 inches from the ground. This got me thinking that some of us are just out of practice, as far as our noses go. So considering kids are still a bit closer to the ground, and that many of them still play in the dirt, this makes them better candidates than most adults when it comes to olfaction. While I was with the kids in the classroom, my very loose intent was to make sure they got to exercise their noses, experience their sense of smell through nature, and begin to become more aware of their sense of smell in their daily life. 

Along with my very exacting arsenal of Demeter Fragrance Library, I brought in an apple, a tomato, some mint, a few lemons, and couple of other things with the hope that they would begin to notice that most fruit and plants that they encounter in the real world carry a scent. Most mornings, five noses at 8:30am would huddle close together to get a whiff, a touch, and even a taste. Not only did they want to smell the mint, but they wanted to eat it, making the intimate connection between smell and taste. Not only did they want to smell the earthworm, but they wanted to hold it. After a while, the kids wanted to know how the apple or tomato got inside the perfume bottle. Considering this is the last question I thought they would ask, I described that there were different ways to extract the oils/scent from a flower, plant, root, or fruit and this liquid eventually makes it into the perfume bottle, and they accepted this quite easily.

Without my lead, the kids began to smell notes inside notes, Theodore swore he could smell Coconut inside Demeter Play-doh, and he kept smelling it and repeating it several times. Kara smelled Green Delicious, and swore she smelled Strawberry too.  Hilary smelled the same Green Delicious, and said this smells like my mother’s hairspray, a little nod to functional fragrance, and thoughts of mama.  

I also brought in some jars of Play-doh, and a box of crayons so that they could smell the real stuff compared to the juice, Crayon and Play-doh. They were very emphatic that the juice and the fragrance didn’t smell exactly alike; they got it! Fragrance is an abstraction, woo hoo kindergarteners. I told them that smelling the real thing and smelling the perfume was sort of like having a real apple on the table in front of them and then drawing that same apple that’s on the table in front of them. They are similar, but not the same. 

Most days we started by smelling an earthworm, literally. My son and I searched our garden the day before, looking for an earthworm or two. I then would put them in their temporary Tupperware home, punch a few holes, and add a leaf for a snack, at my son's urging. After they gently handled the earthworm, we carefully placed him back in his temporary home. Then we sprayed Demeter Earthworm onto the blotter (the kids were always so excited about spraying the fragrances onto the blotters) so they can smell the difference or the sameness. Earthworm, has a wetness, and dampness to it; it smells of wet earth and rotting leaves-camphor-like, and it is so incredibly beautiful. Along with Dirt, and Honey the kids just couldn't get enough of it. Earthworm got some kids thinking that they smelled rat and poison, gotta love the city kids, and remember all perfumistas know that there is no such thing as a bad smell.  

Next up was Honey, it is a fascinating fragrance, mostly because it smells like the work of the honeybee. When the kids smelled Honey they smelled different kinds of flowers, sunshine, and powdery freshness. After we smelled Honey, I read the book, The Honeybee Man, by Lela Nargi and Krysten Brooker. It's about a sweet man who makes honey on top of his roof in Brooklyn, and the journey and work of a honeybees, a day in the life....

I saved Birthday Cake for the very end of class, and they immediately yelled out chocolate, vanilla, sweet, and yumm mmmmmm, others surprisingly yelled yuk. Then I noticed Maya. She had created a fan with her blotters and she was waving all six fragrances at once, under her nose. Exactly like photos I have seen of famous perfumers holding multiple blotters in one hand. She said, "See, I can smell all the fragrances at once."  Without knowing it, Maya immediately passed go and went directly to layering and blending. Now why didn't I think of that, here's to the future. Cheers, Demeter.

The Kids are Alright: DEMETER Fragrance Library in the Classroom: Part 1

I suppose I knew that going into a kindergarten class to wake up kids about their sense of smell would be a lot of fun, but I didn't expect that the kids were going to bring a heightened attention, thoughtfulness, and slight seriousness to the art of smelling. To my surprise, these 5 and 6 year-olds were fully engaged most days for 40 minutes. We worked in small groups twice a week over three weeks, and we mostly did blind smelling, meaning I had them guess what was on each blotter. The beautiful thing is I never directly asked the kids to tell me about memories or stories related to what they smelled, their reactions just naturally poured out of them.

The idea for going into the classroom came to me after I had listened to an art historian from Rotterdam on a webinar entitled, "Smell This" (pretty obscure, I know.) Listen to it here...http://www.v2.nl/events/test_lab_smell_this.  Anyway, the art historian spoke about a "youth" survey where the majority of kids said they would rather give up their sense of smell than give up their electronic devises. She then continued to state that luckily in the near future these kids won't have to make that kind of decision; scent will finally catch up to technology or vice versa, but in the meantime this put me in a bit of a spin, and I was going to do something about it. Right about the same time I met up with Carlos Huber, Arquiste Parfumeur, and I mentioned how important it was to get kids smelling, and how I wanted to bring essential oils into the classroom. He immediately thought of Demeter and how much fun it would be for the kids.

Even though I hadn't thought about Demeter in a while, I had very fond memories of visiting their boutique in the East Village in the late 90s. Demeter fragrances narrow in and capture singular notes/things like, Grass, Martini, Bubble Gum, or Snow. Christopher Brosius founded Demeter Fragrances in 1993; he has since left Demeter (sources tell me his departure was amicable) and continues building his work with his line CB I Hate Perfume. Demeter continues to grow and carry on as well, just take a look at their impressive on-line store. Weeks later when I connected with Demeter they immediately and most generously supplied purse size travel sprays for the entire class, and filled my very specific request for scents from their Fragrance Library collection: Dirt, Earthworm, Tomato, Golden Delicious, Honey, Play-Doh, Crayon, Birthday Cake.

The Kids are Alright

Jose picked up the blotter and remembered the day his family went on a hike through the hills and sand and arrived at the ocean, more exactly it was the day his mother taught him how to swim. He was holding the blotter tightly as he relived and shared this special moment of his life. Franco picked up his blotter and almost instantly recalled the time he played an electric guitar when he was little and how his feet on the earth made the sound even stronger. They were both smelling Demeter Dirt. Other kids had one word guttural reactions to what they smelled. Lucia said "green" as she smelled Dirt, and I have to agree there is a freshness and expansiveness about it. Dirt most certainly was the scent that brought forth all sorts of memories and ideas from the kids. It appears that kids are still thankfully connected to the earth.

At times the connection to smelling and taking action was immediate. After they smelled Crayon, the kids wanted to draw. Maybe there is something about scent as motivation, ya think.... Jose picked up his crayon and began to draw an ocean of earth.

More to come....stay tuned.

Listen to Christopher Brosius talk about Demeter here; his description of Dirt is awesome.

http://www.studio360.org/2006/oct/13/snow-in-a-bottle/

What's better, smelling alone or together? BYREDO PARFUMS and LE LABO

A few months ago,  I created a Facebook Page for Soliflore Notes.  At first I thought this would be a distraction and a slight annoyance, but it has turned out to be a very fertile and creative place for for my thoughts and ideas about fragrance. I've been looking at it as a sort of "behind the scenes" of the blog. I hope you enjoy, and if so please LIKE.


http://www.facebook.com/SolifloreNotes


PLUS..You must know by now ;-)  that I am a monthly contributor on the insightful and au currant blog, Cafleurebon!  Please visit via the link below.  Mark Behnke and I took a targeted stroll together down under at Barneys New York, we encountered BYREDO PARFUMS and LE LABO, then I took the stroll all over again as we all must, ALONE. See what happened @


www.cafleurebon.com/slow-down-and-be-surprised-sniffing-with-a-friend-and-on-my-own/

I'm interested to hear if you prefer to shop for fragrance alone or with a friend....


Thanks and have the best weekend. Valerie

Snap Shot 4: She Wore L'Air du Temps

Describing Aunt Ruthie is a delightful thing to do. She was ultra feminine, fun loving, and a methodical lady. Details were important to her, but not in an uptight stuffy way, if that makes sense. For instance, if you needed to know how long you had to send a couple a wedding gift, she was the one to call, if you were confused about how to properly address an invitation, call Aunt Ruthie. Her ease and elegance remain with me until this very day. She gently served up her classic style through her every action and accessory. My sisters and I are the official caretakers of her keepsakes, including, countless evening bags in assorted colors, some flat, some embroidered, some beaded all with tiny combs and mirrors tucked inside neatly pleated side panels. A pressed powder and lipstick case, the powder still remains, but the orange red matte lipstick long faded. The case smartly converts into a mini bag with a gold handle and mother of pearl exterior. A box of perfectly preserved and embossed set of blank invitation cards, never to be sent.

Each and every Christmas for my entire childhood, the perfect gift always arrived from Aunt Ruthie in a uniformed three, one for each sister, however each item was slightly different to reflect our distinct personalities. One year it was three leather belts, the next year three pairs of gloves, and in each box she placed a penny (for that year) secured to the tissue paper. Specificity and advice was never far away, in the parlor of my grandparents’ apartment, she frankly told the 6 year old me that the dress I was describing was not green, but rather chartreuse. While sitting side by side on the wood living room floor, Aunt Ruthie convinced the 9 year old me that walking while seated is the best way to keep fit and firm. Our arms stretched out in front of us, as we lifted each hip and scooted forward; she was so charming. 

She loved Latin words, big band music and dancing. Once she described how her brother, a photographer, he couldn’t resist a ballerina's wardrobe malfunction that left the dancer perfectly nude, except for her Pointe shoes. He took the photo, she ended the story with her big wide grin and giggle. For years I imagined the Pointe shoes were red not pink, or as she would have said, crimson, not champagne. When I grew up I wanted to wear Aunt Ruthie's perfume, at the time I believed her fragrance would be a direct passage into womanhood. Its curious richness, part spice part floral permeated my nostrils and her sweaters, coats, scarves and body, my godmother, my mother's friend, my Aunt Ruthie's fragrance: Nina Ricci, L'Air du Temps. EDP, (before reformulation, but of course..... ;-).

A Bold Friendship and Gift: Miss Charming, Juliette has a Gun

Choosing a fragrance for a friend can be intimidating, but it can also be an intimate gesture if we take the time to think about the person we love. A gesture that reminds us that we hold someone in high esteem, and that we want only the best for their higher self. Surprisingly, I was the receiver of such a gift. It came to me not because I was celebrating a milestone, but rather because my friend was. We have spent most days together over many years, but this was ending, and she was taking an inspiring leap. With gift in hand my friend anxiously told me there was a gift receipt neatly tucked in the box, just in case. So as I unwrapped my gift, and the Juliette has a Gun box emerged, I was certain that she knew what was right for me even before I did, as friends often do. I would also like to think that my incessant talking about fragrance on the job made her feel confidant in choosing a fragrance as a gift, maybe it's a little of both. Comparing my friend to Balanchine I was reminded how he presented all of his Prima Ballerina's with their signature fragrances, and somehow these fragrances spoke to an essential part of them, or what he saw in them. So I had faith in my friend, and as I sat at my desk feeling very much like an office Prima, Gun's Miss Charming, a straightforward fruity floral surrounded me, on top there is a big hit of Rose that comes across almost green and fresh, the Rose mixes well with tart red berries, and Cassis, which is perfect because it's more green than it is sweet. The dry down is gorgeous and comforting with its green, creamy, and musky ways. One of the few Musk bases that I like. Miss Charming, EDP is a playful fragrance, just perfect to keep me cheerful while I'm missing my friend. Somehow it reminds me of my friend, her smile and our enduring friendship.


Anyone wearing a fragrance that reminds them of someone special?


Still credit: Silkwood, 1983

The Details

A year has gone by since I started Soliflore Notes, and this got me thinking about all the sniffing and non-sniffing experiences I have had, but didn't write about. Some of them self-imposed, and others gently stumbled upon. 

It was February when I began to notice a change. I went to San Francisco to take a perfume-making workshop with Yosh, and besides making my first blend-a green floral, I began to see even more opportunities to bring olfaction into my daily life. There is no need for separation. While all of this was happening I read the most curious article about Karl Lagerfeld in Harper's BAZAAR. http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/24-hours-with-karl-lagerfeld-0412  It described the specifics of his daily life. The rigor of his aesthetic was fascinating, alarming, and I have to say intriguing.  It got me wanting to sneak a little of this back into my life.  I thought of my conversation with Carlos Huber and his love of detail and the way he easily recalled the poetry of Baudelaire. He described a poem where a man is wearing a headdress of roses in various states of decay that begin to slowly fall away. There is so much opportunity in detail, when we don't get too caught up in it. I continued to notice fragrant things all around me, the sachets that don each perfect garment in Anne Fontaine’s shop, the enormous floral arrangements at Gilt (restaurant) perfectly placed in enormous vases in the quiet prior to dinner service. I noticed the Springtime like never before, and appreciated the many folk who stop on city streets to smell a bud or two, and the aggressive way the mint in my garden has already come out to greet me. To this day I am still chilled by Christophe Laudemiel show wear he featured various scent tents, one of the them entitled, “Fear.” Metallic, mossy, my heart raced as I felt utterly alone as I stood in the tent with people all around me inhaling his creation. Next up,  I am going into my son’s kindergarten to get he and his classmates sniffing.

For now though, please check out my latest post celebrating National Library Week entitled, Fragrance, Literature, and Reflection on CaFleureBon, where I am a monthly contributor. All my best, and thanks for visiting here and there.  Valerie

Here is the link to the CaFleureBon post and the New York City Library.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-celebrates-national-library-week-literature-fragrance-and-reflection/

http://www.nypl.org/