A Bold Friendship and Gift: Miss Charming, Juliette has a Gun

Choosing a fragrance for a friend can be intimidating, but it can also be an intimate gesture if we take the time to think about the person we love. A gesture that reminds us that we hold someone in high esteem, and that we want only the best for their higher self. Surprisingly, I was the receiver of such a gift. It came to me not because I was celebrating a milestone, but rather because my friend was. We have spent most days together over many years, but this was ending, and she was taking an inspiring leap. With gift in hand my friend anxiously told me there was a gift receipt neatly tucked in the box, just in case. So as I unwrapped my gift, and the Juliette has a Gun box emerged, I was certain that she knew what was right for me even before I did, as friends often do. I would also like to think that my incessant talking about fragrance on the job made her feel confidant in choosing a fragrance as a gift, maybe it's a little of both. Comparing my friend to Balanchine I was reminded how he presented all of his Prima Ballerina's with their signature fragrances, and somehow these fragrances spoke to an essential part of them, or what he saw in them. So I had faith in my friend, and as I sat at my desk feeling very much like an office Prima, Gun's Miss Charming, a straightforward fruity floral surrounded me, on top there is a big hit of Rose that comes across almost green and fresh, the Rose mixes well with tart red berries, and Cassis, which is perfect because it's more green than it is sweet. The dry down is gorgeous and comforting with its green, creamy, and musky ways. One of the few Musk bases that I like. Miss Charming, EDP is a playful fragrance, just perfect to keep me cheerful while I'm missing my friend. Somehow it reminds me of my friend, her smile and our enduring friendship.


Anyone wearing a fragrance that reminds them of someone special?


Still credit: Silkwood, 1983

The Details

A year has gone by since I started Soliflore Notes, and this got me thinking about all the sniffing and non-sniffing experiences I have had, but didn't write about. Some of them self-imposed, and others gently stumbled upon. 

It was February when I began to notice a change. I went to San Francisco to take a perfume-making workshop with Yosh, and besides making my first blend-a green floral, I began to see even more opportunities to bring olfaction into my daily life. There is no need for separation. While all of this was happening I read the most curious article about Karl Lagerfeld in Harper's BAZAAR. http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/24-hours-with-karl-lagerfeld-0412  It described the specifics of his daily life. The rigor of his aesthetic was fascinating, alarming, and I have to say intriguing.  It got me wanting to sneak a little of this back into my life.  I thought of my conversation with Carlos Huber and his love of detail and the way he easily recalled the poetry of Baudelaire. He described a poem where a man is wearing a headdress of roses in various states of decay that begin to slowly fall away. There is so much opportunity in detail, when we don't get too caught up in it. I continued to notice fragrant things all around me, the sachets that don each perfect garment in Anne Fontaine’s shop, the enormous floral arrangements at Gilt (restaurant) perfectly placed in enormous vases in the quiet prior to dinner service. I noticed the Springtime like never before, and appreciated the many folk who stop on city streets to smell a bud or two, and the aggressive way the mint in my garden has already come out to greet me. To this day I am still chilled by Christophe Laudemiel show wear he featured various scent tents, one of the them entitled, “Fear.” Metallic, mossy, my heart raced as I felt utterly alone as I stood in the tent with people all around me inhaling his creation. Next up,  I am going into my son’s kindergarten to get he and his classmates sniffing.

For now though, please check out my latest post celebrating National Library Week entitled, Fragrance, Literature, and Reflection on CaFleureBon, where I am a monthly contributor. All my best, and thanks for visiting here and there.  Valerie

Here is the link to the CaFleureBon post and the New York City Library.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-celebrates-national-library-week-literature-fragrance-and-reflection/

http://www.nypl.org/

An Offering: Carlos Huber, Arquiste Parfumeur

At the end of a meal my beautiful Italian grandfather, who was a shoemaker by trade and a winemaker (all good things come up from the basement), and fantastic cook by heart, would take an apple and knife in his hands and slowly begin to peel it, starting from its base, working his way around the apple until the skin was a continuous spiral that dropped heavy onto the plate, leaving only the naked fruit to be served. Each slice was delicately balanced on the edge of his knife, an offering to all sitting at the table. My memory would normally end with all of us sitting at the table, but meeting Carlos Huber inspired me to continue on and recall my Poppu’s smock perfumed with solvent and leather that he wore in his shop. He would carefully hang it up at the end of the day. He then poured himself a fragrant glass of his red wine, and with his back to the stove, bouquets of dried oregano and peperoncino just a handful away. Somehow our fascinating conversation stirred this memory, even though we didn't touch on it specifically.

Carlos comes to perfumery via his work as an architect and historic preservationist. His unique vision guides what makes him most happy these days, making fragrances. Ever since I met him at the Elements Showcase, I've been struck by his painterly descriptions of his perfumes. It was the first time I have ever encountered anyone talking about fragrances in this way. I asked Carlos to talk in more detail about Arquiste's hyper-directive fragrance descriptions, and if he considered his perfumes to be abstract. His inspiration comes from history, specific stories, scenes and moments in time. He posed the question, if we entered the world, say of a 19th Century painting, would it be different or would it be not that different from what we know. The characters in the painting might be wearing different clothing, and have different hair-dos, but in the end we wouldn't be foreigners in their world. I agreed, It wouldn't be that different, history is not a boring and dusty place; rather we can resuscitate it, allowing us to see the value of the moment in both the present and the past. Carlos was emphatic that his fragrances should be perceived as modern not abstract. Each fragrance was meticulously built around a precise moment in time, and these moments were not to be expanded on. His collaboration with Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier ensured his exactness.

Infanta en Flor, invites us to hang with Maria Theresa, the Infanta of Spain, June 1660, and smell her perfumed body of Orange flower water; then imagine her waving a scented fan as she catches a glimpse of her man, The King. Infanta is a balanced fragrance, Orange flower water, Immortelle, and Cistus resin meet to create a pleasant floral with a light camphor and amber-like bliss. Carlos calls it austere. L’Etrog, takes us to Calabria, Italy, October 1175, we meet a farmer celebrating the harvest. The smell of his harvested fruit, a mix of flowers and sweat on his clothes, the liquor he drank, and a cabin built of palm leaves in the grove, so he can party all night and get up in the morning and begin to work again. It is a complex Citrus with tenacity. Fleur de Louis, here Orange blossom opens, next Orris brings a violet-powdery rush, and joins with a Jasmine note that stays wonderfully light and modern, the base reads soft, woody, earthy. It represents King Louis XIV, June 1660 and his first look at his bride set in the Basque region at the Spanish/French border. Aleksandr, a beautiful fragrance (influenced by a Pushkin story) is a period film waiting to be made, a story compete with a duel. It starts out cold, its heart of Violet and Balsam reminds me of powdery snow, finally a Leathery note comes along to warm things up. Huber always imagines the pistol has been fired and he sees the trail of smoke coming out of the barrel.

Arquiste also asks us to seek out the personal in history. Flor en Canto, captures an Aztec festival, but for Carlos Canto also brings him home to Mexico City, with its abundance of tuberose that is placed in vases throughout his mother's home. Anima Dulcis is extremely comforting to me, reminds me of tucking my kids in at night. A reverence for Mexican cuisine exists in this fragrance, with its mastery of big bold notes, namely cocoa, vanilla, and chili create warmth and sun. Who would of thought it is based on a restoration of a convent. I love that he calls it a "Baroque" gourmand.

At one point Carlos and I were talking about men wearing floral fragrances, or rather the lack of that. Surprisingly, he said, that even in the niche world, its just not happening that much. That's sad, because I can imagine the entire Arquiste line on either men or women. As we continued, he explained how a flower on a man's lapel was not intended for show, its purpose was to present a woman with something good to smell while dancing. I couldn't help but remember when he greeted me he was wearing something new he was working with, I thought it was Jasmine, but he corrected me. It was Gardenia. It was completely refreshing to smell a floral on a man, an offering and openness for our conversation. Thank you Carlos.     

Art Credit: Dorothea Tanning, EineKleineNachtmusik, 1948

Cafleurebon and The Artist

Hi Everyone, 

Please take a look at my very first guest post on Cafleurebon. It was a delight working with Mark and Michelyn, and creating a "scent track" for the film, "The Artist."  

Here's the link.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/the-scent-track-for-the-artist-the-oscars-meet-the-fifis-draw/

Hope you enjoy and have wonderful weekend. 

Valerie


Art Credit: Maxfield Parrish

Layering at Jo Malone

Layering fragrances can bring out the wannabe perfumer in me; I find it requires a certain focus and attention, and dare I say, a spark of inspiration to make it work, and if it does work it creates something that is completely personal. Combining can enhance or hide a certain note or aspect of a fragrance that ultimately creates something new. When my friend and I found ourselves at Jo Malone Boutique on Bleecker Street a few months ago, we were invited back to have a complementary arm and hand massage. So when I arrived yesterday evening, little did I know that I was going to get a chance to layer. As I was smelling Lime Basil & Mandarin, I slowly noticed that the layout of the boutique with its round table that holds most of the collection, creates an atmosphere perfect for smelling and conversation. When my friend arrived, we were asked to find three fragrances that we thought would layer well together, these three fragrances would be used for the three part massage that included a soak and cleanse, a lotion massage, and a final spray. I guess I didn't know until last night that the line's main concept is centered around combining, flocks of people are collecting it just for this purpose. I think the idea of making something of your own out of something that already exists is a smart one, it's sort of like doctoring a boxed cake. So I began to spray and smell and in a fairly quick turnaround, I produced a trio that I was quite happy with. White Jasmine & Mint for the wash, Anise & Vanilla for the lotion, and Rose Water & Vanilla, Cologne Intense for the spray. As I sat and caught up with my dear friend, talking as we do so intensely about fragrance, we were together happily sipping tea and smelling each layer as it was applied; I was reminded in life you have to seek out your little piece of happiness, and for an hour or so I was exactly where I wanted to be.

I browsed the Jo Malone website today and they have layering suggestions for each of their fragrances entitled, The Art of Combining. I'm so happy they don't have this list anywhere in the boutique, I suppose some would find it helpful, but I prefer to work for my fragrance.


If you have the time please revisit my July post on layering, where I humbly ask, Is anyone else layering? Now I guess I'm wondering Is anyone else layering Jo Malone?

Jo Malone's combining suggestion for White Jasmine and Mint

Red Roses

Orange Blossom

Vanilla & Anise

Nutmeg & Ginger

Art Credit:  Leon Baskt, Nijinksy

Neela Vermeire Creations: Consider These Three: Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling

There is always anticipation once a fragrance is released onto the skin, and into the atmosphere, you never know what might happen. I've been wearing Neela Vermeire Creations: Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling, and have noticed that they seem to create a pleasant pause or perhaps a momentary lapse for some busy New York City folk--not in a loud fragrance way that screams, I'm here, now move over, but rather their reach seems almost subliminal.

At the end of two long and exciting days at the Elements Showcase, which highlights niche and independent (there is a difference) fragrances from around the world. I arrived in my neighborhood, with perfume deep on my mind, and found myself at the check-out when the clerk randomly began talking about perfume to the other clerk. I couldn't contain myself, I asked her why was she talking about perfume, she told me that when I approached the counter she couldn't believe how beautiful my perfume was, this ultimately reminded her about a perfume gift long overdue to her mother-in-law. The culprit: Mohur. Now I only mention this detailed interaction (there were a few more that happened while wearing Mohur) because they rarely occur in the city, and although it's a given that I consider fragrances all the time; it's rare that strangers do. My conclusion: Neela Vermeire Creations draw people in, and ask us to consider them.

At Elements, the engaging Neela Vermeire told me that the single most determining factor in her search for a perfumer was that she wanted the nose to have traveled and experienced her motherland, India. Vermeire currently lives in Paris. She found exactly what she was looking for in Bertrand Duchaufour. Their collaboration created a triad of lux perfumes that speak to the ceremonies of the ancient Vedic Era via Trayee, the influence of the outside world on India during The Moghul-British Raj Era via Mohur, and the pulse of Contemporary India via Bombay Bling.

TRAYEE is intoxicating and complex. Its overall effect is round and reverent. Its Ginger and Peppery, almost Lemony top notes meet the creaminess of Sandalwood. A camphorated Cardamom keeps pulling my consciousness in, out and back to the Jasmine heart of this fragrance. I especially like the handling of the resinous Oudh and how it plays with the other base notes of Vetiver and Amber. The dry down is ever changing. Fresh and heady at the same time. It keeps giving. Adding to its intoxicating charm is its top "Ganja effect" note, a nod to Bhang Ki Thandai, a drink that is served during many festivals in India, it's preparation involves the leaves and flower buds of Cannabis.

As I wear MOHUR I am reminded that a fragrance can be incredibly comforting and bountiful at the same time. A warm Amber and nutty opening blooms and collides into more top notes of Coriander and Cardamom, it's spicy, yet aromatic-even lemony-cool. Lots of opposites pushing and pulling here. As it blooms there is a milkiness to it, then the Rose and Violet come forth, but it's the Rose that is the heart of this fragrance. Its base is sweet and balsamic with Tonka Bean and Vanilla and others working together to create a beautiful support. A lighter dose of Oudh is used here and I love the way it plays with and pulls out the different aspects of the Rose note. There is so much to think about when wearing the sublime MOHUR.

A juicy brightness best describes BOMBAY BLING. A fun mix of Mango, Cumin, and Cassis at the top, give way to heady whites, namely Jasmine, and a Ylang-Ylang, the base somehow keeps it all sweet, bright and high perhaps the Patchouli, Cedar, and Vanilla working hard, just like the city, but then there's the Tobacco and Sandalwood that settles so gently and silently in the dry down.

See Resource Page

Still: Last Tango in Paris

Yosh Han and Vero Kern: A Conversation

A few days ago, I got to talk with two very candid and discerning perfumers, Yosh Han and Vero Kern, just in from their respective San Francisco and Zurich. They first heard about each other while working on a poetry/perfume project that involved getting perfumers to create potential fragrances based on a Ezra Pound Haiku. They didn't actually meet in-person until Yosh was traveling to Italy to scout for representation, and thought to bring her mother and father along as a way to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Yosh decided she would choose a rep based on how they treated her parents. If they were good to her parents, she thought, they would treat her fragrances well too. It is this same instinctual pull that united Vero and Yosh; add to the mix their participation in the annual Smell Festival in Bologna for two years in a row (they shared some very funny stories) and I can only imagine the countless of other exchanges that have allowed this friendship to deepen and grow. During our conversation, on the eve of the Elements Showcase, here in NYC, I caught a glimpse of their friendship, and how these generous perfumers share pure delight in each others' perfumes and creative process.

Let me describe what it felt like to sit down with Yosh and Vero and smell their fragrances with them. As soon as the vials came out of my purse and on to the table, the energy changed. There was a precision and focus that is unparalleled. As they put a bit of juice on their skin, it was then that I was reminded of the location of the olfactory bulb and how it sits very close to the Limbic region of the brain, and why it is thought that smell can release such vivid memories and emotions. At first, they are quiet and then they begin to talk about different notes and ideas. There is a certain calmness and rhythm to the back and forth of their smelling and talking.

KIKI is Vero's boisterous tribute to Paris, where she studied perfumery. KIKI has a mystical top note of Lavender. As Vero inhaled, she smiled, and told me of the lushness and bounty of French Lavender fields throughout France. Yosh, smelled and agreed, and suddenly said, "There's the Passion Fruit." "Yes," Vero said. It's the one note that runs through all of her three fragrances. I tell them that I'm not sure if I have ever smelled Passion Fruit, then they banter back and forth and agreed on its sulfur-like quality. KIKI is also a nod to Kiki de Montparnasse, Man Ray's muse. As a young girl Vero wanted to go to art school, but her mother thought it better if she studied to become a pharmacist, she conceded. She talked with affection about that time, and especially recalled the mixing and the smell memories from the pharmacy. She also spoke of how her travels have influenced Vero Profumo. All roads have led Vero to perfumery, she seems to magically extract the germ out of her life experiences, tossing aside what isn't necessary, and thus has carved out a life that has brought her back to her earliest desire, to be an artist. I told Vero there is so much movement and tension in KIKI, she agreed. Vero added, "The Cassis rises up in KIKI." We smile, we both love Cassis.

Sotille means subtle in Italian. YOSH SOTILLE 1.61 is a masterful and modern mix of Muget and Tea Rose. As Vero smelled SOTTILE, she said, "It's so Green, it's so Green." Something I didn't realize until she said it. Now that I think about it, I think it's this Greenness that gives it a weightlessness and modernity. I told Yosh that I felt as if I were looking down at myself while wearing SOTILLE. She assured me that is because it addresses the sixth chakra, which is the bridge to the spirit. She works energetically with raw materials, and her perfumes address numerology and the different chakras. Yosh speaks at length about the person who is drawn to wearing SOTILLE, and as I listen to her speak I somehow think this person is a bit like her. Yosh is strong and grounded. She has a no nonsense warmth about her and a charming smile and wit. Her name means fragrant, and she believes that ultimately most people in the end become their name. She swears her calling into perfumery was purely accidental, but indeed it is no accident that she is a perfumer. Her perfumes resonate.

Thank you Yosh and Vero, until we meet again, your perfumes and extraits will continue to connect us.

See Resource Page

Photo: Hammam:  Morroco